“头上有个绕绕,脑后有个泡泡,耳朵上两个吊吊,胳膊上两个道道,腰间有个扫扫,脚上有个翘翘。”这段民间顺口溜,形象地概括了“凤阳汉装”的特点。
"There's a loop on the head, a bump at the back, two dangling ornaments on the ears, two lines on the arms, a broom at the waist, and two pointy shoes on the feet."This folk rhyme vividly summarizes the characteristics of Fengyang Hanfu.
“凤阳汉装”指的是居住在贵州安顺的屯堡妇女的服饰,基本承袭了明初汉族女子服饰的面貌,特点为长袍、大袖、大襟,颜色以蓝为主,袖口、领口和斜襟处用五色的彩线绣上花纹滚边,腰间系有一条青布围裙、一条两米多长的彩色丝绸腰带、以及一条黑色的宽腰带,俗称“丝头系腰”。
Fengyang Hanfu refers to the traditional clothing worn by the women of the Tunpucommunity in Anshun, Guizhou. It inherits the style ofthe clothing of womenfrom Han ethnic group in early Ming Dynasty, characterized by long robes, wide sleeves, and large collarsin blue color, with colorfulembroidery at the cuffsandcollars. At the waist, there is a blackapron, a colorful belt over two meters long, and a wide black beltwith both ends looking like the pony tail.
除此之外,“凤阳汉装”的“一头一尾”也很有“看点”。屯堡的已婚妇女将头发分为三绺,挽成发髻盘在脑后,用马尾编织的发网罩着,插上玉石或银制的长簪,最后用青纱、青布或白布折成宽约一寸半的布条包在头上。屯堡妇女自古以来皆不缠足,小腿包裹绑腿,内白外青,其所穿的鞋为鹰嘴一样的尖头绣花鞋。
In addition, the "head and toe"of Fengyang Hanfuare also quite noteworthy. Married women in Tunpu style their hair into three strands, forming a bun at the back of their head, covered with a hair net made from horsehair, and adorned with jade or silver hairpins,then wrapped with a fabric strip. Since ancient times, womenin Tunpu have never bound their feet. They wrap their calves with fabrics, which are white on the inside and blackon the outside.Andthey wear embroideredpointyshoes resembling eagle beaks.
从江南来到西南,屯堡妇女的服饰与明代汉族服饰有着深厚渊源,表达着屯堡人斩不断的乡愁。
From Jiangnan to the southwest, the attire of womenin Tunpuhas a deep historical connection withthe Hanfu ofMing Dynasty, reflecting the enduring nostalgia of the peoplein Tunpu.
如今,行走在屯堡村寨,还能不时见到三三两两传统装束的屯堡妇女。只是原本为平原大地而生的宽大袍衫,在新的环境和生活变得“山地化”——穿长裙的婉约女子变成穿长裤的飒爽女子,行走和劳作都更方便;曾经以蓝色为主的大袖衫,现在逐渐出现了粉色、浅黄、浅绿、藕荷等鲜亮颜色。相比已经定格的历史标本,屯堡服饰既是活态的遗存,也在活态地变迁。
Today, if you walk through the villagesin Anshun, you still cansee women wearing traditional clothing. However, the clothing once designed for the plains, hasbeen "mountainized"to suit the new environment and lifestyle. Long skirtshaveturned into long pants for the ease of walking and working. The formerly blue-based wide-sleeve clothes nowhave brighter colors such as pink, yellow,and green. Compared to thehistorical relics, Fengyang Hanfuis both a living heritage and a dynamic symbol of change.
贵州日报天眼新闻记者
策划 邓国超 张焱
执行 李坤 黄蔚
文字 舒畅
视频 刘义鹏 周尧
整理 韦雨辛